Hypothetical Setup Question

[EddNog]

I picked up a WiiM Pro Plus overnight via Amazon and set it up into my system. I have adjusted the setup as such:
Disconnected Topping D90 III Discrete from the DSPeaker Anti-Mode X2D's digital output and connected it to the WiiM Ultra's digital output (coax)
Disconnected the SVS 3000-Micro's LFE connection from the Anti-Mode X2D
Disconnected Anti-Mode X2D from WiiM Ultra, connected it to the WiiM Pro Plus, connected an SMSL SU-1 DAC to the X2D's output, connected the sub to the SU-1 in stereo RCA, reran room correction calibration.
Added the WiiM Pro Plus to my network, synced the included remote, set up a, "multiroom," group (well, it's the same room) with the WiiM Ultra
Turned on the High-Pass filter on the WiiM Ultra
Set the Low-Pass filter on the subwoofer to match
Used HouseCurve to level match the sub to the speakers

So far so good, sounds at least as good as before, if not better (the SU-1 is a better DAC than whatever is driving the LFE output of the Anti-Mode X2D). Surprising how easy it was to get the speakers and the sub aligned (just used HouseCurve to run repeated sweeps as I adjusted the phase setting in the SVS app).

Result:


I haven't had a chance to test lip sync yet with ARC input; will try later and come back. If it all works, I'm basically ready to add the second sub as soon as I can source a used/open box one in good condition for a decent price, and all I'd have to do is rerun the room calibration on the X2D, which is currently set to 0.2 mode.

-Ed

 

[EddNog]

Lip sync is fine, but ARC input is completely failing to play any sound. This happened to me frequently prior to this group setup, so I don’t think it’s related. I have analog connection from the TV to the WiiM Ultra’s RCA line in as a backup anyway (however it gets used so frequently that it might as well be the normal connection).

-Ed

 

[EddNog]

@Wiimer or @Mr Ee are you guys also finding that once grouping is turned on, everything gets limited to 44.1KHz sample rate?

Also, where is the control to adjust timing manually between devices within the group? Try as I might, I can't find any controls for this.

-Ed

 

[Wiimer]

@Wiimer or @Mr Ee are you guys also finding that once grouping is turned on, everything gets limited to 44.1KHz sample rate?

Oh, I forgot to mention that. I'm Amazon music so I can play up to 24bit/48kHz, but Tidal seems to downsample; Qobuz might have been up to 16/44.1.

Also, where is the control to adjust timing manually between devices within the group? Try as I might, I can't find any controls for this.

-Ed

Device Settings >Sync Audio

 

[Mr Ee]

once grouping is turned on, everything gets limited to 44.1KHz sample rate

Yep, grouping has always done this (I'm assuming to reduce bandwidth and thus potential sync issues) although it's 48khz max depending on source.
Multiroom hi-res audio has been on wiim's "thinking about" list for a while, but probably don't hold your breath. Close your eyes (unless watching a movie!) and enjoy it instead

 

[EddNog]

Yep, grouping has always done this (I'm assuming to reduce bandwidth and thus potential sync issues) although it's 48khz max depending on source.
Multiroom hi-res audio has been on wiim's "thinking about" list for a while, but probably don't hold your breath. Close your eyes (unless watching a movie!) and enjoy it instead

If I told you that I can hear the difference, I’d either be joking or outright lying.

I only realized it was different because of the readout on my DAC.

-Ed

 

[EddNog]

Second sub ordered--got one open box with one year warranty for a decent price. Hoping it comes in before week's end.

Also did a bunch more research and investigation and was able to eliminate the null I had around 160-200Hz by moving my listening position 4 feet away from the way behind me--that wall behind me was the cause of the annoying null around 180Hz.



Running two subs should hopefully cure the new null at ~58Hz.

-Ed

 

[EddNog]

Everything’s physically setup up; we’re busy packing for a short vacation out of town, so I haven’t had the chance to dig deep into the room correction/tuning. That being said, preliminarily speaking, with no EQ at all, it already sounds amazing. The sound is so deep and so enveloping, and so full spectrum. Just stunningly present sounding. Really happy with it and haven’t even truly tuned it up yet, just level matched. Crossover 160Hz. Still need to adjust/set phase and play around with other settings. The subwoofers are arranged so that one driver points backwards and the other is in-plane with the loudspeakers.



-Ed

 

[EddNog]

Turned the KEFs on their side; even better still. Can’t wait until I get some time to do proper tuning. Have to finalize placement before putting in the effort for electronic tuning, though, since I’d only end up completely redoing the correction/tuning if I adjust placement again.



-Ed

 

[jed1]

I also position my main speakers in horizontal orientation. Since tweeter / mid is coaxial, the manufacturer recommends this orientation if necessary. For my setup, the height of the coaxial is about at my ear level.

I have a couple of comments on your setup;

• Main speaker directly sits on the subwoofer. Dual-opposed subwoofer like SVS 3000 mini or Kali WS6.2 hardly vibrates due to cancellation effect. However, main speaker's vibration can affect the subwoofer. It would be desirable to isolate them using separate stands or vibration isolation devices.
• Orientation of the subwoofer drivers. Rear-facing subwoofer driver seems to be too close to the wall or window, likely resulting different acoustic response from front-facing subwoofer driver. Is it doable to have the subwoofer side-fire?

Ultimately, it takes many different configurations to find the best for you.

 

[EddNog]

I also position my main speakers in horizontal orientation. Since tweeter / mid is coaxial, the manufacturer recommends this orientation if necessary. For my setup, the height of the coaxial is about at my ear level.

I have a couple of comments on your setup;

• Main speaker directly sits on the subwoofer. Dual-opposed subwoofer like SVS 3000 mini or Kali WS6.2 hardly vibrates due to cancellation effect. However, main speaker's vibration can affect the subwoofer. It would be desirable to isolate them using separate stands or vibration isolation devices.
• Orientation of the subwoofer drivers. Rear-facing subwoofer driver seems to be too close to the wall or window, likely resulting different acoustic response from front-facing subwoofer driver. Is it doable to have the subwoofer side-fire?

Ultimately, it takes many different configurations to find the best for you.

View attachment 22269

Hi, Jed…

As I am running a very high crossover setting (160Hz) in order to reduce IMD from the LS50 Metas at higher playing volumes, it is best to absolutely minimize the center-to-center distance between the speaker drivers and the subwoofers’ (front) drivers. I did consider side firing initially, but I was told that it can be much more difficult to get a good time/phase alignment that way, as by having one sub driver and the speaker driver co-planar and as close to perfectly aligned as possible, it makes it much easier to achieve a good hand-off (especially since I can take advantage of the SVS 1° incremental phase controls).

It’s also way easier for me to run the cables this way than side firing.

I will likely experiment with placement, but supposedly with a 160-200Hz crossover setting, the ideal distance between the rear facing subwoofer driver and the wall is 8-10inches, while if necessary erring in the direction closer to the wall than farther away, if necessary. As a result of trying to keep both speaker/sub stacks equidistant to the main listening position, I’ve ended up with the right speaker stack about 9” from the glass slider and the left stack about 5” from the wall, as obviously the doors are recessed compared to the wall.

I did a preliminary/rudimentary room correction sweep today, but had no time to perform a full phase tuning or EQ finessing. Got this result so far, but will improve a lot once I get back from from vacation next week and can play with it some more:


-Ed

 

[EddNog]

Okay, here we are; the final setup and the final result. Got a 9.5/10 score from ChatGPT and my ears agree. Sound is just stunning!



Thanks to everyone for your advice and recommendations. Couldn’t have achieved this without you all!

-Ed

 

[MattWnAZ]

Would it be possible to use two WiiMs together to set up a full 2.2 setup? For example, WiiM Ultra as main, "head unit," hooked up to main loudspeakers, with bass management turned on and high-pass crossover turned on to the main loudspeakers, nothing attached to the subwoofer LFE output. Then using Group functionality, sync in a second WiiM, say a WiiM Pro or Pro Plus, then attach a pair of subwoofers to the RCA L/R line outs of the WiiM Amp, and use the Low-Pass Filter on the subwoofers to cross them over to the speakers attached to the WiiM Ultra? Place one subwoofer at the bass of each loudspeaker, especially if using standmounts, maybe use a subwoofer as a base for each loudspeaker, and use a desktop speaker stand to mount each loudspeaker on top of a sub. So left speaker attached to WiiM Ultra's left line out, right speaker attached to WiiM Ultra's right line out, left subwoofer attached to WiiM Pro's left line out, right subwoofer attached to WiiM Pro's right line out, Subwoofer turned on in WiiM Ultra, with crossover/high-pass filter set at X Hz, and then the Low-Pass filters in each of the subs set to X Hz, 24dB/octave, WiiM Pro or Pro Plus playing full-range.

Do you guys think this would work to achieve a 2.2 setup? Has anyone tried or even uses this now? In theory this would allow much higher crossover setting without detriment to imaging. I am thinking to do this possibly with my pair of LS50 Metas in conjunction with two SVS 3000-Micros to create a, "poor man's Blade 2 Meta."

-Ed

Can't you just use an RCA splitter on the Ultra's outputs? One L/R pair to the amp for your mains and the other L/R to your subs?

 

[EddNog]

Can't you just use an RCA splitter on the Ultra's outputs? One L/R pair to the amp for your mains and the other L/R to your subs?

No because then I can’t high-pass filter the mains, making it impossible to cross over at 160Hz and reduce IMD.

-Ed

 

[MattWnAZ]

No because then I can’t high-pass filter the mains, making it impossible to cross over at 160Hz and reduce IMD.

-Ed

Ah, yes....that's true. You'd only be able to set your sub crossovers to wherever your mains drop out, which would be much lower than 160Hz. I have a pair of SVS subs and I've just been splitting the sub-out signal, which is only gives me dual mono. I'm glad the setup you have is working well. I've wondered how much music might sound better with stereo subs.

 

[EddNog]

Okay I did some more homework on my tuning. It’s done. End-game. Look at this sweep!



-Ed

 

[EddNog]

@Wiimer do you find that sometimes the volume between devices in the group go out of sync? Or sometimes group members get dropped? I also find that the time sync between WiiMs does not stay consistent, so when I run multiple sweeps in HouseCurve, the behavior at and around the crossover point fluctuates.

Have you suffered these issues with your setup?

I have decided to order a Luxsin X9 to replace the second WiiM and stop relying on grouping because this functionality does not seem sufficiently reliable or consistent in performance. The level of precision needed to sync subs to speakers with a 160Hz crossover point is beyond the ability of WiiM grouping to handle.

-Ed

 

[Wiimer]

@Wiimer do you find that sometimes the volume between devices in the group go out of sync? Or sometimes group members get dropped? I also find that the time sync between WiiMs does not stay consistent, so when I run multiple sweeps in HouseCurve, the behavior at and around the crossover point fluctuates.

I don't have that problem on my system, but as reported here, I have recently had a issue with the volume changing on its own.

T

Post in thread 'WiiM Ultra Firmware v5.2.719248 - Jun 6, 2025'

Monday at 11:52 AM

So what is up with that volume being randomly changed? It started with the May 15th update, I reported it in that thread and it is still happening on the latest FW.
Even when the device is in standby, the volume randomly fluctuates between 91-100, I randomly fire up the WiiM App and it is changing all the time on its own. I even removed batteries from the remote to confirm it is NOT the remote acting up.
Is it acknowledged as a bug? Will it be fixed? Anyone else getting this? It is pretty annoying.

• Teflon490

Also, because I have added a TV to my system, if I switch the input to TV and change the volume, I then have to readjust the volume on the Pro(Sub) when switching to the Wi-Fi input.

For this reason I have decided to quit group playback and connect the Ultra's Sub out to the Pro's Line-in.



2 Sub will be mono playback, but I'm going to see how it goes with this setting for a while..

 

[EddNog]

I don't have that problem on my system, but as reported here, I have recently had a issue with the volume changing on its own.

T

Post in thread 'WiiM Ultra Firmware v5.2.719248 - Jun 6, 2025'

Monday at 11:52 AM

So what is up with that volume being randomly changed? It started with the May 15th update, I reported it in that thread and it is still happening on the latest FW.
Even when the device is in standby, the volume randomly fluctuates between 91-100, I randomly fire up the WiiM App and it is changing all the time on its own. I even removed batteries from the remote to confirm it is NOT the remote acting up.
Is it acknowledged as a bug? Will it be fixed? Anyone else getting this? It is pretty annoying.

• Teflon490

Also, because I have added a TV to my system, if I switch the input to TV and change the volume, I then have to readjust the volume on the Pro(Sub) when switching to the Wi-Fi input.

For this reason I have decided to quit group playback and connect the Ultra's Sub out to the Pro's Line-in.

View attachment 22769

2 Sub will be mono playback, but I'm going to see how it goes with this setting for a while..

In case you decide that mono doesn’t work out for you, consider the Luxsin X9. It has stereo subwoofer output, and the crossover is more adjustable than WiiM bass management (you can pick the slope, not just the frequency).

Basically the WiiM remains your streaming transport. You can choose to keep using the WiiM for your TV’s ARC connection if you like, but the Luxsin X9 has not just ARC in but full support for eARC. That being said, I don’t think the X9 can decode Dolby, so if you watch stuff with Dolby bitstream material instead of just PCM, then you may still prefer the WiiM for ARC.

-Ed

 

[EddNog]

Took the advice of numerous people and completely updated the layout, also moved crossover down to 150hz. I was able to get rid of a nagging null I had around 72Hz that was due to the subs not being floor-bound. This fixed it. Looks nicer, too!


-Ed